5 Trending Skincare Ingredients You’ll See Everywhere This Spring (And Why They Work)
- Share via
LA Times Studios may earn commission from purchases made through our links.
Spring is the season of glow-ups. As the weather softens and your wardrobe shifts from cashmere to cotton, your skin is also ready for a refresh. That winter-induced dullness? It’s out. Dehydrated, flaky patches? We’re done. The new season calls for ingredients that hydrate, plump, and protect without overwhelming your skin barrier.
And if you’ve been on TikTok or down a beauty subreddit lately, you’ve probably seen the usual skincare suspects (hi, hyaluronic acid) being joined by some newer faces and a few rebranded favorites. But are these trending skincare ingredients worth the hype?
Dr. Daniel Moghadam, Medical Director and founder of Modern Aesthetica, explains the real science behind the buzz. From polyglutamic acid to bakuchiol, here are the five ingredients that deserve a spot in your spring skincare routine.
1. Polyglutamic Acid: Your Skin’s New Hydration Hero
You’ve heard of hyaluronic acid, but polyglutamic acid is having a major moment this spring, and for good reason. This moisture magnet is being dubbed as hyaluronic acid’s bigger, thirstier cousin, and it delivers serious hydration without the heaviness. “Polyglutamic acid works a lot like topical hyaluronic acid serum,” explains Dr. Moghadam.
“However, the molecules are larger, drawing more water to your skin. It doubles as a soothing agent for irritated skin.” Because of its larger molecular structure, polyglutamic acid doesn’t penetrate as deeply as hyaluronic acid. Instead, it forms a moisture-sealing film on the surface, making it a fantastic addition to lightweight spring routines where locking in hydration is key.
How to use it: Layer it after your essence or serum and before your moisturizer to boost hydration retention. It’s especially good for dry, flaky, or tight skin coming out of winter.
Try this: Tula’s Ultra Hydration Triple-Hydra Complex because of the encapsulated squalane pearls, which plump the skin while delivering moisture and reducing fine lines.
2. Snow Mushroom (Tremella Fuciformis): Nature’s Moisture Sponge
Often referred to as the natural version of hyaluronic acid, snow mushroom is more than just a trendy ingredient with a poetic name. Also known as tremella fuciformis, this fungus has been used in Eastern medicine for centuries, but it’s making a major splash in Western beauty circles now.
“Snow mushroom molecules attract water to them and attach to it, allowing better skin hydration,” says Dr. Moghadam. Its particles are smaller than those of hyaluronic acid, so they penetrate the skin more effectively, giving your complexion a deeper, longer-lasting drink.
How to use it: Look for snow mushroom in hydrating serums, essences, or lightweight gel moisturizers. It’s gentle, soothing and plays well with actives like niacinamide or peptides.
Try this: Shikohin’s 5 Mushroom Moisturizer that blends Snow Mushroom, Reishi, Wood Ear, Maitake, and Chaga to hydrate and energize the skin.
3. Azelaic Acid: The Underrated Glow Booster
Azelaic acid may not be as buzzy as its trendier cousins, but it’s one of the most dermatologist-loved actives for good reason. Derived from grains like barley and wheat, it has a unique ability to target multiple skin concerns without irritation.
“It’s great for neutralizing free radicals and evening skin tone,” says Dr. Moghadam. “One of my favorites. Great for dark spots, and works amazingly in conjunction with retinol, but needs to be introduced slowly.” It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for acne-prone or rosacea-prone skin types.
How to use it: Start with lower concentrations (around 10%) a few times a week and build up. It layers well with retinol or bakuchiol, but always monitor for sensitivity.
Try this: Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% because it’s also formulated with niacinamide and vitamin C and developed for most skin types, including sensitive skin.
4. Niacinamide: Your Spring Skin Balancer
If there were a Swiss Army knife of skincare, it would be niacinamide. Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient does a lot with very little fuss. Brightening? Check. Soothing? Absolutely. Barrier repair? Yes, please.
“Niacinamide helps restore the skin barrier, which can be hurt during the dry winter season,” says Dr. Moghadam. “It balances skin oils and has been clinically shown to help correct dark spots. It’s also a strong anti-inflammatory that can benefit problematic skin.”
How to use it: You can layer niacinamide with almost any ingredient, making it a versatile addition to any routine. Use it day or night to help even tone, minimize pores, and calm redness.
Try this: Paula’s Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment
5. Bakuchiol: The Natural Retinol That Actually Works
Retinol may be the gold standard for anti-aging, but it can also be irritating, especially for sensitive skin or those navigating pregnancy. Enter bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative that offers many of the same benefits without the redness, peeling, or photosensitivity. “Bakuchiol is nature’s retinol,” says Dr. Moghadam.
“It’s milder and suitable for almost all skin types, whereas retinol can be irritating. It’s plant-derived, making it relatively safe during pregnancy.” While retinol remains stronger and faster-acting, bakuchiol is a solid option for those looking to ease into anti-aging skincare without irritation.
How to use it: Apply it in the evening after cleansing and before moisturizing. Look for formulas that pair it with hydrating agents like squalane or peptides to boost tolerability.
Try this: Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Eye Cream or Beauty by Earth’s Bakuchiol Serum.
The Bottom Line: Spring Skincare Is All About Balance
As the seasons shift, so should your skincare. Spring is the perfect time to transition into ingredients that support hydration, repair winter damage, and prep your skin for the sunnier months ahead. Whether you’re building your routine from scratch or looking to swap in a few new stars, these trending skincare ingredients for spring are science-backed and expert-approved.
Focus on ingredients that hydrate, calm, and gently brighten as your skin adjusts to the new season — you don’t need a 10-step routine, you just need the right actives.
